In early 2010, two industrious, illustrious, and none-too-ineffable heroes, Chocolatier and Just Mike concluded that a short walk in the woods would serve them well. In late 2013, they concluded the short walk. The following conglomeration of narration and doggerel should be considered at best a work in progress.

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Prologue

A strapping engineer by trade
Just Mike was strong and hale
When, from his job he was very nearly laid
He quit the place, no longer stayed–
He chose to walk the Trail.

The Chocolatier had traveled
His business growing fame
To get some rest and clear his brain
He heeded when the Trail called his name.

They packed their packs (30 pounds at height!)
They carried little, traveled light.
Their Blackbirds stuffed into their nests
Down bags and pads so they could rest
Comfortable and warm at night.
Coke can stoves with alcohol
Stowed in titanium pans quite small,
Gravity filters for water pure
A few odds & ends and still not sure
They had what they needed, but
Sandals on their feet
They proceeded.

The First Section, 2010

Thursday, September 9th

Arrived in Williamstown, MA at 7 PM and checked in at the hiker-friendly Villager Motel for an early Friday start out of North Adams.

Friday, September 10th

It was the worst of walks,
it was the best of walks.
Insane climbs, ridiculous descents,
rock walls and caves, no rolling meadows;
ski trails and ankle ache roads.

There’s a signpost up ahead.

WELCOME to the Pine Cobble Trail; a short nasty little trail that lets you know you’re not off for a gentle stroll in the woods.

The Hikers encounter their first white blaze; they have reached the spot where the Long Trail begins. The Long Trail (henceforth LT) and Appalachian Trail (henceforth AT) coincide for the next hundred miles or so until Maine Junction, where the AT forks eastward toward Hanover, NH and ultimately to Mt. Katahdin, in Maine.

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Lunched with three AT-SOBOs at Seth Warner Shelter, where Chocolatier shared a Raaka bar. We hiked the last mile to Congden Shelter in the rain, with our new friends Owen, Ed and a few other LT-NOBO hikers. Hammocks and bear-bag hung, the hearty Hikers soundly slept.

Saturday, September 11th

Chipmunk realized he wasn’t a bear;
undeterred by a hanging bear-bag
gorged on GORP and breakfast bars
and in the morning sunlight gloated.

Chastened, the Hikers mouse-bagged all their remaining days, for the rare wandering bear might on occasion find your bag and consume it all, chipmunks and mice will partake daily!

After breakfast, Just Mike stepped on his new once-used alcohol stove.

Il pleut.

Hello Mudder, Hello Fadder,
Here we are at Camp Vermudder.

The Hikers washed, scrubbed laundry, hung hammocks, and set in for relaxing repose at a harmonious clearing just above Hell Hollow Brook, only to be tried by a troupe of testy teenagers with serious six-packs of bad beer, who set up across the river. Packed hammocks and continued to a new (and quiet) spot a mile and a half further along the trail.

Sunday, September 12th

Red sky in morning, hiker take warning.

Brief respite at Porcupine Lookout, then lunch and sharing Alpaco 66% Ecuador drinking chocolate with a pair of young AT SOBO ladies (and a well-behaved canine) at Goddard Shelter.

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A pleasant but wet evening at Kid Gore Shelter with six other hikers. Beautiful view overlooking a long valley. We hung on a small overlook a little way from the shelter.

They rarely slept in shelters, but preferred to nest in trees
Their Blackbird hammocks kept them dry and slung with grace and ease
And kept them warm and toasty down at 42 degrees.

Monday, September 13th

Rain finally stopped, on trail at 9:40 AM. Just Mike’s knees were worrying him, so the Hikers opted to save Stratton Mountain for a later day and traverse the mind-numbingly boring Stratton Pond Trail. They arrived at the Taj MaHut (akaStratton Pond Shelter) to find that Owen and Ed, and almost everyone else at the shelter had also chosen to skip the mountain.

Rather than a dreary mile-long hike around the pond to the tenting area, especially given the impending storm, so the Hikers surreptitiously affixed their hammocks to the rafters of the shelter attic.

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• 

• 

Chocolatier hosted a semi-formal Chocolate Tasting–including a rare Finca Las Acacias 75% from Danta Chocolate in Guatemala–for the denizens of the hut, including Caretaker Meredith, a horticulture major who knew a fair amount about cacao. This may be why she didn’t notice our illicit hammocking strategy.

Two years later, the Hikers did climb Mount Stratton and camped at the tenting site. It rained all weekend, of course.

Tuesday, September 14th: Resupply

Our Hikers lunched upon a log just before Spruce Peak Shelter. The sky cleared just as we finished our dampish break. Somewhat later they arrived at Route 11, and after much skepticism on Just Mike’s part, took just 5 mins to thumb a ride into Manchester Center for resupply. The Trail Angel was a local condo painter with a big air freshener in the back seat of his truck. Checked in at Chalet Motel and dined at the bar & grill across the street. Chocolatier enjoyed a very long shower, as he was very dirty.

Wednesday, September 15th

We hailed a cab to Manchester. Amen!
We’re lean and mean, no longer green. Amen!
Our muscles sore, our shorts no longer taut on hips. Amen!
At an Outdoors shop in town we sought–belts the first things that we bought. Amen!
Just Mike had stomped his cooking gear, a new Trangia did appear
so he could once again prepare a meal. Amen!

• Took a cab into Manchester Center. Purchased the following from the local gear shop: (1) belts, as our pants were getting too loose, (2) alcohol by the ounce, and (3) a Trangia alcohol stove for Mike. Stopped by the grocery store for supplies and the PO for our resupply package–Rich changed clothes (very quickly) in an open PO Box alcove. Letter from Torene! Repacked box and sent it on its way home. Back on trail @1200
• Lunch at Bromley warming hut (nice!) and on trail @1500.

Hung part way down Mad Tom Notch.

The new unstomped Trangia stove slurped fuel
Ounce by precious ounce. Burned cool,
And weighed more heavily
Than a soda can of Al+++

Thursday, September 16th

• Working water pump at the bottom of Mad Tom Notch.
• Mid-morning snack on a sunny outcrop at the top of Mt. Styles.

Some time not-too-distantly near,
A ditty about Baker’s Peak goes here!

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It was raining and Lost Lake Shelter wasn’t there; had burned (or so they were told). But you know what they say. In the rain at burnt out site of a burnt out shelter was Lost Lake Shelter unburned. The troupe took shelter at Lost Lake Shelter (unburned) with Owen and Ed and Allison “Soft Cheese” and Brigette and shared hot drinking chocolate with all. That’s what they tell you. At least, that’s what they say.

Friday, September 17th

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It was no longer raining; we posed by pretty Lost Lake pond, Chocolatier and Just Mike and Owen and Allison and Brigette, and Allison offered us soft cheese (tiny rounds of Laughing Cows?) and we went our different ways.

Just Mike and Chocolatier reached the Big Branch River and forded the river because the map showed no bridge. But there was a bridge–a bright new suspension bridge–freshly timbered, red ribbon freshly cut! And Chocolatier and Just Mike grinned to each other and said “my what lucky folk are we!” and crossed the bridge that wasn’t there. At least, that’s what they say!

• Took a group photo by the pond. Breakfast at Big Branch Shelter.
• Expected to have to ford Big Branch, but found a spanking-new suspension bridge (ribbons freshly-cut) across the water.

“Roots.”

In hurry, damp and haste away
So when we left Mike’s Tilley did stay
A clear quarter mile back Rich blithely flew
To get Mike’s hat, great favor made
With ceaseless teasing to ensue

Saturday, September 18th

• Spectacular day. Brunch at Minerva Hinchey Shelter @1100.
• Clarendon Gorge was a steep and difficult descent. The hike out was like something from Indiana Jones–a waterfall climb
• Clarendon Shelter for lunch–grass lawn, flower boxes.
• Hung 1/2 mi north of Lower Rd on a ridge above a river.

Sunday, September 19th

• Breakfast at Gov. Clement Shelter. Met Owen & Ed helping a guy hike out. Shared chocolate w Ewok, an AT-SOBO.
• Killington @0930. Hiked and chatted w Owen quite a bit. Lunch at Cooper Lodge atop Killington w Owen and a GMC volunteer.
• Arrived Inn at Long Trail to greet our wives @1700.

The Second Section, 2012

Friday, August 31st

• On trail at Route 4 @0950. Weather nice.
• Good time to Maine Junction and the remains of Tucker Johnson shelter. Only wildlife is a chipmunk and a garter snake.
• Lunched at Rolston Rest @1230 on ham, provolone & diced onion. Filtered water, on trail @1310.
• Eternal afternoon “slabbing” a narrow barely-extant trail along the side of a mountain.
• Set up in a gap somewhat south of Telephone Gap. Dinner of pad thai noodles & tea. In bed @1930.
• Rained around 2230–just got the tarp up on time. Undulating gusty winds. Small animal tightroping along my ridgeline.

Saturday, September 1st

• Scrambled eggs, coffee & tea and on trail @0725.
• Rest & water at David Logan @0915, back on trail @0945
• Wetmore Gap @1015. Found a nice big toad & a pair of sunglasses. Slabbed the eastern slope of Bloodroot Peak, then even easy hike to Sunrise.
• Soaked feet in beautiful waterfall just before gap. Arrived Sunrise Shelter @1530. Napped. Made dried tomato & roasted pepper pizzas with salami & Manchego on fried corn tortillas. Tango chocolate w maple-almond butter for dessert. Joined by Jeff & Jacob–a father-son LTSB team. In bed @0730.

Days are nameless in the wilderness
we’ll just walk and call today
today

Sunday, September 2nd

• On trail @0730 w one of Laura’s Megabars. Quickly hit Rt. 73–steep climb with many stone steps. Climbed of Great Cliffs of Mt. Horrid. Another fat toad. Peaked @0855. Made hot drinking chocolate and noshed almond butter.
• Beautiful day. Reached Cape Lookoff Mtn. 3216ft @0945. Stunning view of the valley. Ridge from Lookoff to Gillespie is pretty and pleasant, but a long downhill trudge.
• Tail of cigarette butts on trail.
• Sucker Brook Shelter @1240. Sad trickle, but usable. Mike napped 3 hours.
• Quesadillas and chili noodles for dinner. Evil family appeared.

day has ended, our hammocks set
Far cry of a baby, yipping dog
growing closer
dangerously closer
Large man carrying a wailing infant
a 6 year old and new puppy carelessly frolic
large mom yelling at all and taking over the shelter
A stogie is lit
our hammocks packed
to seek another place

• Hiked a steep mile up Mt. Worth. Found a spot to hang @2000.

Monday, September 3rd

• Breakfast of drinking chocolate & Laura’s granola bars & on trail @0715.
• Pretty morning, very quiet. Spent half an hour swimming & washing at Lake Pleiad. Filtered water and on trail @1040.
• Non-trivial Silent Cliffs climb. Stopped for lunch on ridge @1215.
• Mike took photos of an Ent just on the trail. Rested at Boyce Shelter from @1500-1615.
• Met DJ, a 60ish Atlantan LTNB who did the AT in ’93. Sleeps in a WBBB.

Atop Battell
A flat-top red mushroom
Ascends a throne of emerald moss.

• Dinner w DJ at Skyline Lodge (wasabi peas!), but no place to hang. The three of us moved on and hung atop Broadloaf Mtn.
• Rained around 1500, drizzling by @1830.

Tuesday, September 4th

• On trail @0715. Breakfast at Emily Proctor shelter–DJ arrived–on trail @0840.
• Crested Mt. Roosevelt. A few days back this would have kicked my butt, now starting to get hiking legs back.

On the slope of Mt. Roosevelt
Wind-scattered leaves
Foretell Fall.

• White rock slab with a spectacular vista, but just fog today. Peanut butter break and back on trail @1015. Miles to go. Hope to be in Warren tonight!
• Seasoned tuna on pita with EVO for lunch just after Little Hans Peak. Finished the last of the drinking chocolate. Moved on @1200
• Crested Mt. Cleveland and downward to Cooley Glen.
• Ran into an LTSB who greeted me by saying “hey, are you NH Chocolatier?” Your fame preceded you!”
• Ran into another LTSB who said we were a mile from Cooley Glen. Arrived @1315. A nap, left @1415, then on to Lincoln Gap.
• Peaked Grant @1445. Not steep, but long. Barely winded. The view we would have seen had it not been foggy must have been spectacular.
• Peaked Sunset Cliffs–pretty. Turned on cell phone to call taxi and it immediately crashed.
• Arrived Lincoln Gap @1800. After 20 mins, hitched a lift with an off duty FedEx driver to Warren, where Trail Angel Peter gave us a lift to the Golden Lion Inn, as the hostel was closed.
• Dinner at Easy Street Cafe in Waitsfield. Not inexpensive, but delicious. Mike enjoyed steak & Malbec; I had a burger & humongous bleu salad. Both of us could easily have eaten much less!
• Phoned our wives, layed gear to air and dry.

Wednesday, September 5th

Mike and Rich went up a hill;
Mike did gripe, but climbed it still!

• Showered again & breakfast at the Inn. Caught C&L Taxi to the post office and then the Warren Store (a great gourmet grocery) for resupply. On trail @1035.
• Reached Battell Hut @1200 & lunch of a lovely sandwich from the Warren Store. Maltballs for dessert! A funny 10th grade religious school group moved in and we moved on up Mt. Abraham.
• Steep rock-crawling climb up Abraham–peaked @1400 with 360 degree views of clouds. Pretty alpine scenery.
• Hung on the ridge just before Mt. Ellen–possibly the prettiest hang of the trip so far. Could see off both sides of the ridge. Dinner of grilled cheese made from fresh baguette and Von Trapp Family “Oma” triple creme cheese. Night was completely still and quiet. Mike’s hiking legs finally kicked in and we both enjoyed the day’s walk.

Thursday, September 6th

• On trail @0730 and hit the Castle Rock Chairlift within 5 minutes. Foggy again & 56F at the lift. Breakfast of Tomme, sausage & drinking chocolate on the chairlift.

Water five miles behind us
unknown in front
Thirst blooms

• Peaked Mt. Ellen @0840. Hit Stark’s Nest @1130. Water barrel ! !  This was good, since we were pretty dry. Nice weather, but breezy. A couple of day hikers took a photo for us.
• Very steep .7mi straight down (ladders!) to Theron Dean shelter, where we arrive @1245. Beautiful place! I hung at a cliff’s edge where I could see the remaining hike all the way to Camel’s Hump. Made spaghetti from scratch for lunch, just for the heck of it. Napped and headed out @1620.
• Hung atop Baby Stark Mtn @1800. Tuna casserole–tuna, ramen, cheddar, & spices for dinner. Drunk guy passed us looking for the parking lot but going the wrong way. We turned him around. Trail runner passed us as well.
• Clear and pretty night.

Friday, September 7th

The wind creeps from west to east
whispers up draws over summits
hear it coming, then it’s here
hear it leaving
sighing

Mushroom villages:
Elven castles, magic light
multi layer laid in shade
Hidden spells and deep secrets stay
Gone tomorrow, gone away

• On trail @0710.
• Hike down Molly’s Balcony was steep at first, then evened out. Kicked into “high gear” and blew down the mountain to arrive at Birch Glen camp just before @0900. Big place! We breakfasted and bathed and get back on trail @1025.
• Gorgeous day and 2.9 mi easy hike down to Cowles Cove. DJ wandered in and we hiked together the remainder of the day.
• Hike up Burnt Rock Mountain was harrowing with steep drops and magnificent 360 degree views. Long ladder down the North face and we found a spot to hang around @1630. Quesadillas for dinner.
• Clear warm night with a pretty moon and some stars.

Saturday, September 8th

• On trail around @0700
• Over Ira & Ethan Allen Mountains–not steep, but seemingly endless–to Montclair Lodge @1000 for breakfast. Foggy, of course.

Vermont sky threatens to clear.

Plentiful water.   Made coffee, tea, and drinking chocolate for all. Headed for the ‘Hump @1130 and peaked @1330. Very windy. Felt like flies on a windshield at 60mph. Steep, rough climb, but easier than Burnt Rock.

From the peak
Endless eternal spiral
Through woods, over rocks
Storm breaks, lightning
Down, down, through nine Hells.
Hard rain, we pitch tarps
To wait out the worst.
Cold, wet. Dinner.
Rain slowing,
Down, down, we continue
Over the Devil himself
To Bamforth Shelter
Entering, shivering,
Just as the true gale
Begins.
In the morning
It is clear.

Sunday, September 9th

• Easy hike to the parking lot near the Winooski river where we meet with Torene and Kitty and discover
• Prohibition Pig.

The Third Section, 2013

Saturday, August 17th

• Lunch at Prohibition Pig
• On trail @1240, weigh it at 30lb (R) & 36lb (M)

Pulled pork.
80 degrees.
Steep climb.
I sit on my pack, awaken with my nose in the dirt.
An auspicious start.

On a ridge
A mile past Duck Brook
I sit on a rock;
Wild blueberries stain my fingers.

It is early for raspberries,
And yet I see
Three perfect specimens along the trail.
They are delicious!

• Nice weather
• Stopped for the evening @1640 a mile past Bolton Notch Rd
• Poison ivy, zen brownie, grilled cheese sandwiches

Sunday, August 18th

• Nice weather
• Breakfast at Buchanon Shelter @0900.

Into the Big Hand of Death
Flew the 600!
— The Charge of the Skeeter Brigade
Mosquito buzzes
On my glasses, shadowing
My blood and her young.

Bolton Moves.

• Lunch at Puffer Shelter. Met Yonder & Mooncaller there. “Bolton Moves!” said Mooncaller.
• Stopped for evening about a mile before Taylor Shelter.

Monday, August 19th

• Nice weather

A Choice: Sink or Swim. (Beaver pond before Taylor)

• Breakfast at Taylor Shelter. Ran into Yonder & Mooncaller again. Realizing this section of the trail is much more difficult than anticipated.
• Lunch at Twin Brook Campsite junction @1145.
• Soaked in a pretty brook after Taylor.

Savage witches and the curs from hell.   A Beowulfian epic.

Harpies with the foul fanged curs from hell
had cornered travelers in the dell
carbide tipped spear drawn, sharp and ready
conflict skirted
progress steady

• Very steep with large granite slabs.
• Arrived Butler Lodge @1300 and decided to stay, as Mike was looking worn out.
• Camille the Caretaker allowed us to hang. Shared spicy Naga Chili Fudge with Alex and Allie and…

The Not-So-Mighty Wizard & his mighty fireball stove (Epilogue: Camille again)

Hut got crowded with a Bostonian tribe
We gathered our gear from under their feet
The master prolific with words and skill
Armed his stove, we left the room, firm and fleet

And setting up our hammocks safe and dry
A cry, a yell, a slamming door
from which flew a flaming rocket
to rattle blazing on the stones below
bright flame then lay smoldering
remained thus through the night

Tuesday, August 20th

• Pinhole in my water bag; duck tape to the rescue.

Mooncall and The Tale of the Wampahoofus

• The Wonderful Wampahoofus Trail
• Falling from the Top of the Earth
• Down Smugglers; Up Smugglers
• Ended the day most of the way up Smugglers’ Notch @1700.

Wednesday, August 21st

• Bath and laundry at Sterling Pond
• Mt. Madonna was beautiful, but steep.
• Called the Inn to reschedule a day out (from Wed to Thurs)
• Ended the day at Whiteface Shelter @1415, chatting with a pair of AT-SBs that had decided to run the LT (both ways) since they were there, then…

Voices, we heard voices then one by each
on our silence to encroach
Two teens, one with phone and mouth
The dad, then a dog, the alpha bitch
and they her pack to protect
growled and hunched at every breeze and move
including her pack

Quiet shaking of my nest
Quoth Rich
Ner again to at hut stay but
in between them we shall lay

• Declared we would never again sleep at a shelter.

Thursday, August 22nd

• Put Mike on the chocolate IV diet
• Whiteface is steep–mostly a scramble

100 Words for Steep

Of grassy knoll or rolling meadow there are none
but rooty ways and steep inclines are found
no matter which the way that one is bound
rare the vista you will see
but rather foot, root, stone and walk will be

• Bear Hollow shelter is beautiful.
• Met some really nice Lady sectioners on the way down. Easy walk to Rt. 15.
• Arrived at Route 15 @1240. David from Nye’s Green Valley B&B picked us up in his white convertible.

The chariot white, a welcome site from Nye’s Green Valley Farm.
A fair respite, it flew us right to Nye’s Green Valley Farm.
Our room was comfortable and bright, our mailed box awaiting
at Nye’s Green Valley Farm.
Kept us dry from torrent’s blight; they cleaned our smelly trail clothes.
We showered, changed, and felt repose at Nyes…
Took us out to Warren-town to dine and resupply,
Fetched us back when we were filled,
Our laundry cleaned and dried.

• Resupply box and a letter from home. Resupply at Hanley’s Market (a bit lacking), dinner at 158 Main (Tuna Nachos were most excellent!)
• Torrential downpour (and we’re inside!)
• Offered a chocolate tasting to our hosts. (Patric Rio Caribe, Valrhona Nyangbo, Valrhona Gran Couva, Pralus Djakarta, DLC Cacao Tao)

Friday, August 23rd

• Breakfast, PO (nice lady), Johnson’s Hardware (needed nothing from there) and back on the trail
• Heavy packs, handfuls of wild blackberries trailside.
• Easy walk. Neat photo op at the Lemoille River Suspension Bridge
• Easy to lose the trail at Prospect Rock overlook–look left!
• Lunch at Roundtop Shelter–an unusual L-shaped shelter with skylights. Very pretty.
• Encountered “Old Joe,” an elderly gent who just finished sectioning the LT and was partying with friends (and balloons). He didn’t really have a trail name, so I dubbed him “Old Joe Balloons.”
• Beautiful soulful waterfall crosses the trail. Sat and enjoyed for a bit.
• Ended the day in a flat woody area .25 mile north of Codding Hollow Rd @1600. Fresh stir fry for dinner!

Hidden spells and deep secrets stay
Gone tomorrow, gone away.

Moonlight cry of coyote
call to the pack
answered with vigor
then silence; the hunt.

In the silence of the night
the only noise is your heart, your gut.

Saturday, August 24th

Impressive Cliffs

Charlotte rules her spiraly art
and guards it with hardened heart
to feed her children, this must work
vigilant duty, nere to shirk

• Trail becomes rugged
• Lunch at Corliss Camp @1220
• Mt. Butternut is definitely steep (and appropriately named)
• Ended day just south of Bowan Mtn @1605. Feeling good, ravioli made a nice dinner. Peaceful night.

Coyote has left spoor on a bridge;
He calls to us again in the quiet dark
to gather with his soul-pack.
We decline politely; Coyote is a trickster god
best left to his own devices.

Sunday, August 25th

Unpacking for second breakfast
on a bench at the Spruce Ledge overlook
the tightly packed bag of spare dry clothes—
shorts, socks, shirt–
leaps from Chocolatier’s pack
rolls quickly to the cliff edge,
pauses, as if to say “adieu!”
then disappears.

The Dead at Devil’s Gulch; the Secret One-Way Cave

• Mt. Belvidere’s a Tease. The peak that never arrived.
• Ended the day in a copse most of the way up Belvidere @1650.

Monday, August 26th

Rain washed path, stepping in cascades
walking down with the flow, up against
A signpost stands tall amongst hazy trees:

Terminus.

— something of a non comment after a long long walk

• Rained at night; awoke in a cloud, packed in the damp. Mike names his tarp “Rainshadow.”
• After a week, Mike finally figures out coffee. Japanese teabags seem to work.
• Breakfast at Tillotson @1015.

At the end of it all
you are there
alone
the doing and done is behind you
only a marker then to the next journey
Not so much as fulfilled as promoted
in common with a few

Epilogue

Oh bright traveler that we meet
We greet you and you do not reek.
The grace and solitude you seek
Is up ahead, and it is STEEP!